Clandestine visual culture is celebrated in Vince Aletti's book of physique photography.
By Emily Smith 📸 ** culture November 10, 2022
A charming companion always taking seat at my desk, filled with photos, rarely shows interest. Yet, one day, upon laying eyes on a edited image, they suddenly exclaimed, "Now I see what you're captivated by!" This quirky anecdote originates from the esteemed critic, collector, and curator, Vince Aletti. His fascinating journey with Physique Photography is immaculately captured in his latest monograph, Physique, published by SPBH Editions / Mack.
Hailing from the shadows of clandestine visual culture, Physique Photography gained traction in the early 20th century and continued through the 1970's. Studios such as Bob Mizer's Athletic Model Guild and Don Whitman’s Western Photography Guild fueled its growth. In essence, Physique Photography can be construed as a precursor to contemporary pornography, distributed via mail-order prints and magazines.
Gay culture found a unique gaze within Physique Photography in an era when same-sex relationships were considered a crime, and homophobia was rampant in society. Several publishers felt the need to print disclaimers, presuming that their content would only be acquired by artists and athletes - those who might derive inspiration from it.
Vince Aletti, a resident of New York, began his Physique Photography adventure by amassing images he deemed classic and clean. As he delved deeper, his fascination shifted towards more peculiar approaches to the human form. Nan Goldin, an artist, refers to Physique's subjects as "1950s Grindr in a world before Photoshop and digital intervention."
In Vince Aletti's East Village apartment, Physique Photographs occupy towering stacks of books and ephemera. He explains that these were among his first acquisitions, their allure stemming from their affordability. He notes that the importance of print quality he learned from these early finds had a profound impact on his future photograph collection.
Designed by Bruce Usher, the book is opened by a 1955 Cavalier image depicting a young man casually draped across a fabric-covered box. In purely designer terms, the image is framed between expanses of white space. Aletti's second collaboration with SPBH Editions following 2022's The Drawer, similarly takes inspiration from his personal collection, highlights images obscured within a single drawer, layered one upon another with no blank space.
'The Drawer was spontaneous and entertaining, but I desired a more concentrated work,' Aletti shares, recounting the inception of his new project. 'Bruno Ceschel, the publisher's founder and director, and I would frequently peruse the Physique Photos in my apartment. The editing process was the challenge, but it was also the most exciting aspect of the entire endeavor.'
'Setting images up against one another, discovering connections, and fostering a new narrative was the essence of the task,' Aletti continues. 'I aspire for viewers to appreciate each image individually, as well as to witness the connections that I believe add depth to the viewing experience.'
Physique serves as a celebration of the artistic merit that defined Physique Photography, prompting readers to consider its impact on gay culture and the history of the nude in photography. In Aletti's words, 'I want those who read the book to comprehend what came before, and to develop an awareness of the thriving community of photographers who were dedicated to catering to a hidden audience.'
Physique by Vince Aletti is available through SPBH Editions / Mack at a price of £50. Explore the intriguing world of Physique Photography, and revel in its impact on queer culture and visual arts!
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References:
- Visconti, R., & Harmon, III, J. (2021, March). The Queer Eye for Photography and Beyond: A New Perspective on the Role of Gay Men in Art History
- Arnold, P. A. (2011). Photography in America, 1839–1915. Thames & Hudson Ltd
- Gompertz, T. (2011, November). Tom of Finland: a queer hero emerges
- Barringer, F. (2015, June). A Different Sort of Pride Month
- Scott, J. (1990). Paris is Burning
- Vince Aletti's collection extends beyond Physique Photography, with towering stacks of books from home-and-garden to entertainment genres, showcasing his eclectic lifestyle.
- In his East Village apartment, books on various subjects such as home-and-garden, lifestyle, and entertainment are intermingled with Physique Photographs, reflecting Vince Aletti's diverse and intriguing tastes.
