Italian artisan Denis Pretto introduces a taste of Italy to Estonian dining experiences

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Denis Pretto, a 41-year-old cheesemaker with an Italian flair, calls picturesque Quinto Vicentino his home base, but his heart belongs to rural Tartumaa in Estonia. Not academic research, but love for his Estonian companion that led him to the Baltic nation. Together, they transformed an old manor house in the countryside and started producing authentic Italian-inspired cheeses.

Denis' initial foray into Estonia came through academic exchange, initially as an Erasmus student in Sweden, later moving to Estonia for postdoctoral research at the University of Life Sciences in Tartu. There he met Annemari, his future spouse and mother of his children. With degrees in agriculture, animal breeding, dairy science, and food science, Denis and Annemari share a deep passion for food, agriculture, and animals.

Now parents to two children, they run a farm and dairy that produces pecorino-style cheeses, ricotta, burrata, and gelato from the milk of rare Lacaune sheep.

burden of the bull's horn

The succeeding chapters of Denis' life have been inseparable from the Italian roots he keeps close to his heart. His mother resides in Italy, as do most of his professional contacts, from technology and raw materials to veterinary advice. Even when confronted with animal-related issues, he turns to his parents for advice as they were also engaged in farming and dairy production.

Launching his cheese-making business in Estonia in 2016, Denis found the environment more favorable than in Italy—less bureaucracy, less competition. However, the landscape changed after the pandemic and the war in Ukraine. "Nowadays, kickstarting a business in Estonia is as daunting as in Italy," he laments.

Yet, Denis appreciates the perks of Estonia's digital state. "In Italy, you have to show up in person for everything," he says with a grin.

When Denis and Annemari revamped the nearly century-old Viinamärdi farm in 2018, six or seven artisanal cheesemakers tagged along. "Now only three or four remain," Denis sighs, acknowledging the tough economic climate. Given the circumstances, he admits he wouldn't embark on the same venture today.

the land of sunshine and pallid nights

Denis has adopted life in Estonia with enthusiasm. He cherishes the sauna, a weekly ritual that began during his time in Sweden. He's also grown fond of local cuisine, particularly early potatoes with dill, onions, and sprats. "The culinary scene in Estonia has seen remarkable growth in the past 12 years," he endorses.

He's intrigued by the variety in Estonian supermarkets compared to Italy. "There are dozens of types of cereal flakes here - in Italy, you're lucky to find five or six," he offers as an example. To his family in Italy, he always brings Estonian delicacies - cereals, cheese, and other quality products that are either unattainable or subpar in Italy.

Denis dispels the notion of Italy as a gastronomic paradise where every meal is a symphony. "You need to know where to go," he advises, pointing out that genuine trattorias serving fresh, authentic food are typically tucked away in secluded neighborhoods.

Even when savoring gelato, due diligence is essential. "There are plenty of ice cream makers in Italy who just mix milk with powder," he warns, adding that tongue-ticking is usually an indicator of artificial ingredients. At Viinamärdi farm, their gelato flavors are the result of four years of diligent development, featuring fresh strawberries from Marjamaa farm, pistachio and lemon cream from Italy, and Bourbon vanilla from Madagascar.

One unsuspected surprise he encounters in a positive light is the abundance of good nurseries and venues for children's events in Estonia. "Our younger son is finishing nursery school, and they're organizing a graduation party. That sort of thing doesn't exist in Italy," he chuckles.

temperamental tango

When it comes to cultural contrasts, Estonian manliness pales in comparison to its Italian counterpart. "With an Italian, you're friends from the first glance," Denis asserts. "With Estonians, you have to make an effort, but once the barrier is crossed, the friendships run deep," he adds, capturing the essence of Estonian reserve.

Estonian women, on the other hand, strike him as more open and independent than Italian women. "In Italy, it's still common to live with your parents well into your thirties. In Estonia, people often begin independent life in their early twenties," he observes.

Denis notes striking contrasts in national pride. "Italians are only patriotic about football and food. Estonians feel a deep pride in their country," he remarks. He was particularly moved by Annemari's strong connection with her homeland and her in-depth knowledge of Estonian history.

a home of many tongues

Denis and Annemari bring up their two boys, Artur and Aron, in a household where three languages reign—Italian, Estonian, and English. "We fell in love in English, so it would feel strange to switch languages now," Denis explains. Communicating fluently in Estonian, he converses naturally with his employees.

Although Estonia's long, dark winters can be discouraging, Denis considers them part of the charm. "Those three are the hardest," he admits, longing for the glorious sunshine of Italy.

a cheesy love story

Denis keeps himself busy with work, family, and the business he and Annemari have devoted their hearts to. "If I weren't making cheese, I'd be producing something else—food is a passion for Italians," he says.

Life in Estonia has helped Denis cultivate self-confidence and people management skills. "I have three employees now, and that's helped me become a better communicator and problem solver," he concludes.

Though Denis sees few cultural similarities, he believes Estonians share a certain uniqueness with the people of northern Italy. "Estonians want to build things themselves, with their own hands. That's a feeling that resonates," he muses.

The article is a piece from the media program "Estonia with many faces," showcasing the richness and diversity of Estonian culture, underscored by the journey of Italian cheese-maker Denis Pretto in Estonia.
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Despite his Italian roots, Denis Pretto, a 41-year-old cheesemaker, feels a deep connection to rural Tartumaa in Estonia, a bond born not out of academic research but love for his Estonian companion.
Initially exposure to Estonia came through academic exchange as an Erasmus student in Sweden, later moving to Estonia for postdoctoral research at the University of Life Sciences in Tartu.
Denis and his spouse, Annemari, share a deep passion for food, agriculture, and animals, with degrees in agriculture, animal breeding, dairy science, and food science.
Together, they transformed an old manor house in the Estonian countryside and started producing authentic Italian-inspired cheeses.
With the establishment of his cheese-making business in Estonia in 2016, Denis found the environment more favorable than in Italy—less bureaucracy, less competition.
However, after the pandemic and the war in Ukraine, Denis laments that nowadays, kickstarting a business in Estonia is as daunting as in Italy.
Denis appreciates the perks of Estonia's digital state, where one doesn't have to show up in person for everything.
When Denis and Annemari revamped the nearly century-old Viinamärdi farm in 2018, they welcomed several artisanal cheesemakers, but now only three or four remain due to the tough economic climate.
Denis has adopted life in Estonia with enthusiasm, cherishing the sauna, a weekly ritual, and local cuisine, particularly early potatoes with dill, onions, and sprats.
He's intrigued by the variety in Estonian supermarkets compared to Italy, with dozens of types of cereal flakes available in Estonia versus five or six in Italy.
Denis dispels the notion of Italy as a gastronomic paradise, emphasizing the need to know where to go for genuine trattorias serving fresh, authentic food.
Even when savoring gelato, due diligence is essential, as there are ice cream makers in Italy who just mix milk with powder.
At Viinamärdi farm, their gelato flavors are the result of four years of diligent development, featuring fresh strawberries from Marjamaa farm, pistachio and lemon cream from Italy, and Bourbon vanilla from Madagascar.
Denis encounters a positive surprise in the abundance of good nurseries and venues for children's events in Estonia.
Cultural contrasts, such as Estonian manliness paling in comparison to its Italian counterpart, fascinate Denis.
Estonian women, on the other hand, strike him as more open and independent than Italian women.
Denis notes striking contrasts in national pride, with Italians only patriotic about football and food, while Estonians feel a deep pride in their country.
Denis and Annemari bring up their two boys in a household where three languages reign—Italian, Estonian, and English.
Life in Estonia has helped Denis cultivate self-confidence and people management skills, as he has three employees now, and that's helped him become a better communicator and problem solver.