London's Soho Hides a Hidden Gem: Fonda - Elevating Mexican Cuisine with Bold, Brighter, and Playful Interiors
On a balmy, unexpectedly warm March evening, I find myself at Fonda, a contemporary British-Mexican fusion restaurant in London's central Soho, run by renowned chef Santiago Lastra. As I walk from the bustling Bond Street, I pass revitalized office workers who have spontaneously abandoned their desks for the streets, gathering around central pubs, reminiscent of the opening act for my impending dinner.
Fonda, nestled on a pedestrian road where David Bowie's iconic album cover for 'Ziggy Stardust' was shot, mirrors the album's boundary-pushing spirit. Since its October 2024 launch, it has rapidly earned its place among the city's top restaurants, applauded for its audacious and delicious reinterpretations of traditional Mexican delicacies.
"All traditions originate from innovation at some point," Lastra explains, illuminating the vision behind this new venture, named after the humble, family-owned Mexican eateries found along rural roads. "At Fonda, we don't strictly adhere to traditional recipes. Instead, our dishes are an interpretation of my personal favorite Mexican dishes, creatively presented using fresh UK ingredients, resulting in a completely fresh perspective on timeless flavors."
Materials for some of Fonda's decorative pieces are sourced from Oaxaca, Mexico. The handmade ceramic plates feature red clay and varying sizes, while the distinctive modern rustic decor invites guests to immerse themselves in the restaurant's aesthetics, a testament to character and story.
Upon entering, I am struck by the expansive yet intimate dining area, enhanced by bold contrasts of wood and terracotta tones. Vibrant, geometrically decorated bar counters, upholstered banquettes, and artworks adorn the walls, ceilings, and shelves, a collaborative effort among various independent artists.
A-nrd's founder, Alessio Nardi, explains that while their firm initially conceived Lastra's first restaurant, KOL, alongside his creative partner Lukas Persakovas, the brief for Fonda evolved into a more audacious and playful direction to establish its distinct identity. Today, Fonda's contemporary Mexican artistry, rich materials, and thoughtful detailing endow the space with a standout quality.
From its intimate, open kitchen, inspired by traditional casonas, which draws guests into the experience, to the shareable, globally inspired menu, Fonda encapsulates the essence of Mexican food culture. Tempting dishes such as the bittersweet ceviche, smoky Tetela, Suadero's earthy Maitake and oyster mushrooms, and the nutty Gringa tortilla illustrate the restaurant's bridging of diverse gastronomic traditions.
Despite the absence of limes or avocados in any of Fonda's drinks and plates, the chef intricately blends local British ingredients, creating a sublime fusion of flavors and textures. As a passionate advocate for Mexican cuisine, I initially question the innovative approach, but the flavorful, mouthwatering dishes ultimately leave me yearning for more, even with a crisp Champagne Paloma in hand.
Every element of Fonda, from its culinary offerings to its decorative pieces, invites exploration and discovery. In the dining room, visitors can admire the comals, built-in round skillets for heating tortillas, feel the glazed water green tiling under their fingertips, and marvel at the sculptural kitchen design. In the second bar, tucked away on the lower floor, various original creations, from totemic statuettes to whimsical textile installations, await discovery.
"Every piece had to speak to the spirit of craft and narrative we were weaving through the space," says Nardi of the restaurant's art collection, which collaborates with talented Mexican artists like Fernando Laposse and M.A Estudio to create striking, narrative-driven pieces.
Whether cozying up in a sharing booth or gazing at the artisticmasterpiece Of Bugs and Buds or quirky sloth sculpture Pancho, every corner of Fonda offers a unique, immersive experience. As Lastra states, "I want people to leave with a 'birthday feeling', even if it's just a normal day." For an unforgettable foray into contemporary Mexican cuisine, book your table at Fonda today.
Enrichment Data:Fonda stands out for its unique and modern take on traditional Mexican cuisine, featuring several distinctive elements:
- British Ingredients in Mexican Dishes:
- Fonda combines British ingredients with Mexican flavors, resulting in a playful fusion of culinary traditions. Dishes like Baja fish tacos and long-simmered short-rib beef smothered in mole poblano encapsulate this innovative approach.
- Relaxed Atmosphere:
- While offering sophisticated food, Fonda maintains a relaxed dining experience, making it suitable for casual and intimate gatherings.
- Innovative Service and Presentation:
- In addition to its culinary creations, Fonda incorporates unique service elements, such as using bespoke plates and Ziploc insulation bags for tortillas and encouraging patrons to sample various salsas.
- Artistic and Creative Dècor:
- The restaurant's modern rustic interior seamlessly merges traditional Mexican craftsmanship with contemporary sensibilities, while bespoke textile installations and striking artworks add an element of surprise and delight for diners.
- The handmade ceramic plates at Fonda, featuring red clay and varying sizes, are sourced from Oaxaca, Mexico, adding a touch of authentic texture to the modern rustic decor.
- A-nrd, the firm responsible for Fonda's design, has creatively blended traditional Mexican craftsmanship with contemporary sensibilities, resulting in an aesthetically pleasing interior-design that tells a story.
- Despite the restaurant's focus on innovative cuisine, Fonda managed to maintain a relaxed atmosphere, making it suitable for casual and intimate gatherings, mirroring the lifestyle associated with food-and-drink and home-and-garden experiences.
- The expansive dining area at Fonda, enhanced by bold contrasts of wood and terracotta tones, showcases a collaborative effort among various independent artists, with vibrant, geometrically decorated bar counters, upholstered banquettes, and artworks adorning the walls, ceilings, and shelves.
- Fonda's contemporary take on traditional Mexican cuisine is evident in dishes such as the bittersweet ceviche, smoky Tetela, and nutty Gringa tortilla, which creatively blend diverse gastronomic traditions and fresh UK ingredients.
- From the intimate, open kitchen featuring comals, built-in round skillets for heating tortillas, to the second bar with whimsical textile installations, every corner of Fonda offers a unique and immersive art-and-decor experience, inviting exploration and discovery.
- In the dining room, guests can admire the sculptural kitchen design, feel the glazed water green tiling under their fingertips, and marvel at the artistic-masterpieces like Of Bugs and Buds or quirky sloth sculpture Pancho, leaving them with a 'birthday feeling', even if it's just a normal day.
