Review of Raffles London at The OWO Hotel: Eight-year, £1.4 billion renovation breathes new life into Bond's birthplace
The Old War Office (OWO), a historic Edwardian building in London, has a captivating history that spans across the 20th century. Completed in 1906 and situated on the site of the Palace of Whitehall, the former residence of English monarchs, the OWO served as the central hub for British Army administration[1].
However, its most intriguing connection lies in its involvement with British espionage. The OWO played a pivotal role in the formation and operations of MI5 (domestic counter-intelligence), MI6 (foreign intelligence), and the Special Operations Executive (SOE)[2]. It was a key location for planning critical wartime operations such as the D-Day landings in World War II[3].
Sir Winston Churchill, a notable figure, served as Secretary of State for War at the OWO between 1919 and 1921 and visited often during the Second World War. He had a ritual of addressing his staff from a balcony every morning[2]. The mysterious metal grills that once concealed telephone cables inspired the design of British hand grenades[2].
The old library at the OWO, once hosting the biggest collection of military history volumes in Europe, is now a light-filled brasserie called Saison, overseen by three-Michelin-starred chef Mauro Colagreco[2]. The mosaics running along the edges of the corridors, which were relaid piece-by-piece during the restoration, bear witness to the building's rich history[2].
Vera May Atkins CBE, an intelligence officer who oversaw SOE's female agents and tracked down missing operatives after the war, is one of the women honored by having a suite named after her at the OWO[2]. The suites at the OWO have been named to honor women who worked in British intelligence, many of whom were signatories of the Official Secrets Act and never revealed their wartime work[2].
The OWO has a unique place in popular culture as well. Ian Fleming, the creator of James Bond, is said to have dreamt up the character while working in naval intelligence at the OWO[4]. The OWO has appeared as MI6's headquarters in several James Bond films, including Octopussy, A View To A Kill, Licence To Kill, Skyfall, and Spectre.
After ceasing government use, the building was sold in 2014, restored, and reopened as the Raffles London Hotel in 2023[1][3]. The hotel's transformation took eight years and £1.4 billion, resulting in a blend of old-school luxury and hi-tech amenities[5]. The four-floor Guerlain spa at the OWO offers a stark contrast to the building's former life[6].
The OWO's past as a hub of British espionage continues to be celebrated and explored. Matthew Sweet's book, The West End Front, details the wartime secrets of London's top hotels and the espionage activities that took place there[7]. During the war, there were more spies than sommeliers at Claridge's[8]. Even the story of Stella Lonsdale, a suspected double agent, unfolded within the walls of the OWO, with her confinement to Room 519 during her interrogation[9].
In conclusion, the OWO began as a British Army administration center, became a vital site for British intelligence agencies and wartime planning, and now operates as a luxury hotel while retaining its rich espionage heritage. Its transformation from a bustling center of government activity to a tranquil sanctuary for relaxation serves as a testament to the passage of time and the enduring allure of its historic past.
[1] https://www.raffles.com/london/discover/history [2] https://www.raffles.com/london/discover/history/military-intelligence [3] https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-london-49122013 [4] https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-london-49122013 [5] https://www.raffles.com/london/discover/accommodation [6] https://www.raffles.com/london/spa [7] https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b01n0y2c [8] https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b01n0y2c [9] https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b01n0y2c
The Old War Office, now transformed into the Raffles London Hotel, has maintained its storied past by blending a luxurious home-and-garden lifestyle with a nod to its captivating lifestyle rooted in espionage and wartime planning. The meticulously restored mosaics along the corridors serve as a constant reminder of the building's rich history, offering glimpses into its enthralling past lives.
