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Women seek detailed enamelwork, specifically meenakari

Collaboration of Zoya by the Tata Group with Alice Cicolini, a UK-based designer, results in a special edition of Meenakari jewellery, featuring a blend of enamel and uncut diamonds.

People are seeking meenakari, a traditional form of Indian art that involves intricate inlay work...
People are seeking meenakari, a traditional form of Indian art that involves intricate inlay work on metal surfaces using colored enamel powder.

Women seek detailed enamelwork, specifically meenakari

In the heart of South Mumbai, the colourful jewellery pieces inside the Zoya boutique command a double take at every glance. These aren't just any pieces, but a limited edition of 19, created through a collaboration between Zoya boutique, a luxury jewellery atelier from the Tata Group, and international jewellery designer Alice Cicolini.

The enamel used in this collection is a testament to the tenacious art of enamel decoration on metal. Made with powdered glass and other liquids, it is fired on a kiln to create vividly coloured, smooth, and durable decorative surfaces. The meenakars, artisans who engrave enamelled colours on jewelled pieces, remember their generations-old skills till today, crafting intricate patterns that adorn the pieces with motifs of flowers, leaves, peacocks, and geometric shapes.

Meenakari, a specific form of enamelling famously used in India, is the primary material used in this collection. Originating in Iran (Persia) around the 15th century, it was introduced into India in the 16th century during the Mughal era. The term Meenakari (also spelled Minakari) literally means "placing paradise" on an object. It involves an intricate enameling process that fuses coloured powdered glass or semi-precious gemstones onto metal surfaces such as gold, silver, or copper through high-temperature firing.

The process of Meenakari enamelling includes base preparation, design outlining, enamel application, firing, and finishing. The base metal is shaped into jewellery or decorative objects, intricate patterns are drawn or engraved on the base metal, finely powdered coloured glass or gemstones are applied onto the surfaces and cavities of the design, the object is fired in a kiln at very high temperatures, melting the powders to create a smooth, glossy enamel coating fused permanently to the metal, and finally, polishing and detailing enhance vibrancy and smoothness, ensuring durability and brilliance.

This collection, designed by Alice Cicolini and Zoya boutique, showcases the beauty and craftsmanship of Meenakari enamelling. Enamel and uncut diamonds are the main components of the jewellery, creating a stunning display of colour and sparkle. The meenakars' precise hands and centuries-old skills have resulted in a collection that is a fusion of traditional Indian artistry and modern luxury.

Whether you are a collector of fine jewellery or an admirer of Indian art, this limited edition collection is a must-see. It is a celebration of the rich history and culture of Meenakari enamelling, and a testament to the enduring appeal of this ancient art form.

This limited edition collection, a fusion of traditional Indian artistry and modern luxury, not only showcases the beauty and craftsmanship of Meenakari enamelling but also extends to the realms of fashion-and-beauty, with its exquisite jewellery pieces. Meanwhile, the home-and-garden enthusiasts might find inspiration in the intricate patterns and vibrant colors, resembling paradise, as these pieces could serve as unique, artistic decorative items.

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